The Best Dishes Eater Detroit Ate in May (2024)

Here at Eater Detroit, we dine out several times a week, which means we come across a lot of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Introducing a new monthly feature, highlighting the best things that the Eater Detroit team ate. Check back monthly!

Nigiri set at Goblin

35925 Southbound Gratiot Avenue, Clinton Township

Exceptional sushi is defined by the quality of its ingredients, which is why I am a frequent visitor of the Goblin, a casual sushi bar situated in an unassuming strip mall next to a pawn shop, where the small kitchen staff prioritizes quality and meticulous preparation. The nigiri set includes six pieces of chef’s choice nigiri, which is sourced seasonally, served on koshihikari rice, renowned for its superior taste and texture that retains moisture longer. Co-owners Joseph Cho and Yosep Cho pride themselves in preparing in small batches of rice throughout the day. The ownership makes it a point to disclose where it sources its fish, which, when you take a bite, offers a buttery texture that melts in your mouth, complemented by a rich, clean flavor. A delightful umami punch from the shoyu glaze sets this sushi apart. Insider tip, ask for “pickled wasabi” and you will not be disappointed. — Fatima Syed, freelance photographer

Jamón ibérico at Leña

2720 Brush Street

There are few things I love more than potato chips, so seeing a bag of Better Made surrounded by ribbons of Spanish ham and wrinkly, spicy peppers made my heart thump out of my chest like a cartoon wolf. Being from Pennsylvania, which is home to iconic chip brands like Utz, Wise, Herr’s, and many more, I’m a fanatic for regional potato chips, and Better Made are among the best I’ve encountered. They’re something Detroiters should be proud of, and it certainly seems like the folks at Leña are. You’ve probably had jamón ibérico before — the deliciously rich, nutty, and smooth ham made from black Iberian pigs is as famous as it is ubiquitous these days. Jamón ibérico doesn’t require any doctoring, so seeing the folks at Leña uniquely pair it with chips is a good indicator that their entire menu pops with creativity. This dish has one simple instruction: Lift the bag, where a hole is cut at the bottom, and let the chips pour out onto the plate. Slivers of salty, processed chips and imported ham are a diabolically fun combination that surprisingly works well. The slender and briny piparra peppers break up the salty qualities of the ham and chips nicely. This is Basque Country-meets-Michigan. — Danny Palumbo, Detroit-based freelance writer

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Shawarma nachos at Beirock Wraps

5926 Middlebelt Road, Garden City

My mom and I went kayaking in Hines Park with a group from the Friends of the Rouge over Mother’s Day weekend and it really worked up an appetite. On my way home, I stopped by Beirock Wraps, a casual Lebanese Mexican spot in Garden City, and was impressed by the shawarma nachos — loaded with chunks of tender steak, nacho cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, and the restaraunt’s signature Beirock sauce. Arabs and Mexicans have been co-existing within relatively close proximity in metro Detroit for decades, and have an even longer shared history dating back to the early days of tacos al pastor, making it only natural that we would be blessed with a spot that celebrates both cultures’ culinary contributions in one place. Owner Adrian Jimenez tells Eater that he started learning about Middle Eastern cuisine around 2008 and quickly picked up on similarities between the food of his Mexican background and that of Lebanese food, including an insistence to keep tradition alive. Beirock does this seamlessly, allowing ingredients typical of each region like turmeric, allspice, cinnamon, paprika, and cumin to combine, resulting in incredibly rich, complementary flavor combinations — such as with that Beirock sauce and the nacho cheese, which are both liberally ladled over warm tortilla chips. The shawarma meat at Beirock is not prepared on a spit, but rather on a charcoal grill, which Jimenez says helps lock in those flavors. I kept trying to decide if the nachos were more Mexican or more Lebanese. The answer is both. And I love that. — Serena Maria Daniels, Eater Detroit editor

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Student Noodles from Crocodile Palace at the Little Fleet

448 East Front Street, Traverse City

Since early 2023, Crocodile Palace in Traverse City has captured a cultish following from area winemakers, chef-types, and other discerning palates who adore this take-out eatery on Cochlin Street for bold, memorable Sichuan flavors that are sizzled up by a team of Michiganders who cooked in Michelin-starred kitchens before returning home. This summer, dishes from this locally-loved team are also available on Front Street — where Crocodile Palace has just taken up residence as the permanent, year-round food tenant at the Little Fleet. The menu at this second location is slightly different, and includes a ramen bowl called Student Noodles ($14). Fresh ramen noodles from Sun Noodle (the same company that supplies New York’s Ivan Ramen) are topped with bright cilantro, cabbage, and scallion; Ann Arbor-made tofu; and a soft egg ($2) that was laid just 12 miles away. The dish is named for the noodles chef Patrick Evans ate in college, when he would skip making a broth and just pour ramen flavor packets directly onto his noodles. “It’s savory, it’s sweet, it has all those profiles that we want someone to have when they are here,” Evans says. “They don’t have to think about it very much, it just tastes delicious.” So delicious, in fact, that my kids, students themselves, recently asked to visit Crocodile Palace’s new location twice in one day. — Stacey Brugeman, Fresh Coast correspondent

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Wagyu pastrami sandwich at Dragonfly

2929 E Grand Boulevard

Thankfully, we live in a golden age for bar food. Gone are the days when you had to settle for stale bar snacks (remember peanuts?) and limp French fries. Take Dragonfly, the bright and colorful co*cktail bar attached to Freya, which has a new wave happy hour menu that’s stacked with exciting options. The wagyu pastrami sandwich is particularly indulgent — a wonderful mix of fatty wagyu pastrami, marinated cabbage, homemade Russian dressing, and funky white cheddar wedged neatly in between brioche bread. Still, the sandwich somehow exercises restraint. Though deliciously rich, I didn’t feel totally bogged down afterwards. Happy hour at Dragonfly is 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. — Danny Palumbo